Release Your Stress and Anxiety With The Patience and Care For A Bonsai Tree

Bonsai is a horticultural technique that the Japanese adapted from the Chinese practice of penjing. The Chinese created miniature landscapes, which provided magical properties to its practitioners. The smaller the landscape, the more magically potent it was. Around 700 years ago, the Japanese started to copy the art-form and slowly started to move away from the landscapes to focus on the individual trees. This is what people now call Bonsai today. 

Japan’s focus on a single tree instead of a landscape is due to the influence of Zen Buddhism, which emphasizes the beauty in severe austerity. This combined with the fact that Japan and fewer varied landscapes in comparison to China, led to the focus of a single tree in a pot. Unlike the original pots, the Japanese ones tended to be deeper, which allowed for more variations of the Bonsai art.

Today, there are a variety of styles for Bonsai trees, all of which are meant to mimic certain circumstances in nature. Depending on the type of style you go for, you could end up doing a lot or a little training on these miniature trees. While Bonsai don’t have to fit a specific form, it’s important to get a basic understanding of shapes in order to create a pleasing silhouette. The most common styles are:

• Broom (Hokidachi) - This style works best with deciduous trees that have extensive and fine branching. The trunk remains upright with the top branching out. In general, the branches and leaves form a ball shape up top make for a lovely spring-fall foliage and stunning visual during the winter months.

• Formal upright (Chokkan) - This is one of the more common styles that you see and it’s often found in nature. It can work with any type of tree. The trick for a good formal upright Bonsai is to make sure the trunk is thicker at the bottom and gradually gets thinner as it reaches the top. The top of the tree should be a single branch.

• Informal upright (Moyogi) - Similar to the formal upright, the informal upright is often found in nature as well. The trunk grows upright in the shape of an ‘S’ with branching occurring at each turn. As with the formal upright, the trunk should taper out towards the top.

• Slanting (Shakan) - This style represents a tree that grows in the shadow or as a result of wind blowing in one direction, which gives it that slanted appearance. As you would expect, this style requires the tree to slant at an angle of about 60-80 degrees relative to the ground. Similar to the formal and upright, the trunk should taper as it gets to the top.

• Cascade (Kengai) - Cascade represents a tree in nature that has been bent down due to factors such as snow or falling rocks. This style can be difficult for beginners as it can be hard to maintain downward growth since it’s the opposite of a plant’s natural instinct. Pots for this style tend to be deeper to encourage strong root growth. If you want to brave this style the trunk itself must go upright for a few inches, but the bend downwards and curves into an ‘S’ shape as it bends downwards.

• Semi-Cascade (Han-kengai) - This style is not as dramatic as the cascade, but the trunk will still dip downwards. Similar to the cascade the trunk will grow upwards for a short distance and then will bend downwards/sideways. The trunk should never grow below the bottom of the pot.

• Literati (Bunjingi)  - This style represents a tree’s struggle to survive. The trunk is crooked and without branches until the very top. Often the Bonsai artist will de-bark some branches and one side of the trunk to show the tree’s struggle.

• Windswept (Fukinagashi) - As the name suggests, this style gives the tree the appearance of strong winds blowing on the tree. Both the branches and the trunk of the tree all grow to one side.

• Double Trunk (Sokan) - While often found in nature, this style is actually not often seen in Bonsai due to the difficulty of creating a double trunk. Generally, both trunks will grow out of a single root system, but it could also be that the smaller trunk grows out of the larger trunk above the ground. Either way, for a good double trunk style, the two trunks should vary in thickness and length. The thicker one should grow almost upright, while the second one should be thinner and more slanted.

• Multitrunk (Kabudachi) - This works similarly to the double trunk system, but with 3 or more trunks. This grows out of a single root system, making it one tree. All trunks should form one crown where the thickest trunk forms the top of the crown.

• Forest (Yose-ue) - Not to be confused with the multitrunk style, the forest style is comprised of several trees instead of one tree with multiple trunks. The most developed tree goes into the center with a few smaller trees on the sides placed in a staggered pattern.

• Growing on Rock (Seki-joju) - This dramatic style features the roots of the tree as it grows over a rock and into the ground. The unprotected root forms a special bark giving this Bonsai a unique appearance.

• Growing in Rock (Ishisuki) - Unlike the growing on rock style, the growing in rock style has the trees literally growing through the rock. Since the roots are sapping nutrients from stone instead of the ground, the trees tend to be thinner and shorter.

• Raft (Ikadabuki) - Even when lying on its side, a tree can still grow. This style shows the resilience of the tree as the main trunk is on the ground with its branches growing upwards. The old branches develop into trunks with multiple branchings.

• Shari (Sharimiki) - As trees age, the sometimes develop barkless areas on their trunk due to harsh weather conditions. This part usually beings where the root emerges from the ground and thins as it goes up the trunk. Harsh sunlight will then bleach these exposed areas leading to a unique pattern on the tree.

Bonsai Tree Care Basics

In order to get the proper shape and size that you want, it’s important that you take good care of your Bonsai trees. These aren’t saplings after all. Most Bonsai trees are created via propagation from a source tree via cutting or layering in order to get the appropriate foliage and trunk thickness. 

If you want to keep your Bonsai small, you’ll need to do some periodic trimming and pinching. As the name suggests you want to pinch and trim back any new growth to the farthest safe point. You don’t want to remove all new growth as it could decrease the health of the tree. Some trees will require more maintenance than others such as tropical and sub-tropical species. Since each different tree grows at different rates you just need to keep an eye on your Bonsai and adjust your trimming and pinching accordingly.

Watering

Watering is one of the leading causes of Bonsai failure as many people tend to underwater their trees. Since the bowl for Bonsai tends to be shallow, it dries out very quickly. You should water your plant as soon as the surface becomes dry. Depending on your pot, type of tree, fertilizer, etc. you may need to water your Bonsai once a day. 

When watering your plant, make sure to fully saturate the roots. This most likely means watering until the excess comes out of the pot’s drainage holes. Make sure to have a water collection tray under your pot to avoid a potential mess. The water in the tray will also act as a reservoir for your plant.

Of course, you want to avoid overwatering as well. If you’re noticing yellowed leaves and smaller, shriveled branches. If the Bonsai is overwatered the roots are drowned in water, depriving it of oxygen. This can lead to root rot and eventual death of the Bonsai tree. Overwatering is often caused by poor drainage, so make sure you’re using the appropriate soil. During the winter months, your tree likely won’t need as much water, so make sure to only water it when the soil is completely dried out.

Fertilizing

Fertilizing regularly is crucial during growth season in keeping your Bonsai alive. While normal trees can extend their roots into the soil, a Bonsai is limited to the small amount of soil in their pot. Thus, it’s important to fertilize regularly. This is doubly the case for the Growing in Rock style as the rock provides very little nutrients for the Bonsai. 

In general, younger Bonsai require more fertilizer than more mature ones as they are still growing. With that said, it’s a good idea to periodically feed them during their growing season from early spring until mid-autumn. The type of tree you have will affect how often you fertilize and the type of fertilizer you use. With that said, it’s recommended that you use a balanced fertilizer (equal parts Nitrogen, Phosphorous, and Potassium) throughout the year with more given to the plant in the spring and less in the fall. Still, there are some exceptions. If you want your Bonsai to flower, you should use a fertilizer high in Phosphorous.For older trees, you might want to find a fertilizer slightly lower in Nitrogen.

Repotting

In addition to pinching and trimming, repotting is a key factor in keeping your Bonsai healthy. You’re not repotting to give it more space. In fact, repotting is meant to remove excess roots, which will keep your tree from starving. Bonsai trees should be repotted once every two to five years depending on how quickly it grows.

It might seem daunting, but once you get the hang of it, repotting is fairly simple and straightforward. For best results follow these steps:

1. Remove the tree from the pot

2. Use sharp shears to trim away the outer layers of the roots

3. Inspect the root for areas of rot and trim.

4. Clean the pot and remove any moldy areas

5. Place mesh squares over the drainage hols to prevent soil from falling out

6. Layer the bottom of the pot with soil then place the tree on top

7. Fill the remaining pot with soil and cover up the roots

Bonsai Soil

To prevent overwatering, you want to choose soil that offers proper drainage. In addition to standard soil, you also want to add large particles such as rocks and stones for additional air. This will help with drainage. Of course, you want to make sure there’s not too much drainage, otherwise, your tree won’t have anything to drink! To improve water retention, you should add a little bit of clay. 

A good pre-mixed soil option tends to be the best option, though these can be quite expensive. Still, it’s a good investment and will provide your tree with all the nutrients it needs, at least in the beginning. Looks for soil that is suggested for the type of tree you have.

Location For Your Bonsai Tree

If you bought your Bonsai through a seller, they should provide you with proper Bonsai care instructions on proper positioning and placement. Of course, finding the best spot for your tree can be difficult as it also depends on your climate, time of year, and so on. Of course, the decisive factor is the tree species and whether your tree should be indoor or outdoor.

Generally speaking, indoor Bonsai tend to be tropical or subtropical species that require consistent temperatures and high humidity. You want to place trees where they can get the most sunlight, generally right next to a South facing window. For (sub)tropical trees, you will also want to invest in a humidity tray.

For outdoor trees, look for a bright spot that gets plenty of light. For most Bonsai, the annual cycle is crucial for their health, and overprotecting them can actually weaken them. If you do live in an area with harsh sunlight and your tree is used to a more temperate climate, you can move it to a shady location in the summer. During the winter, you should bing your Bonsai into a greenhouse or cold frame to protect its roots from freezing. Just make sure not to expose your tree to extended high temperatures as that can bring it out of dormancy. 

Advanced Care Techniques

Many people say that Bonsai isn’t about keeping plants, it’s a way of life, and that is true. Bonsai require consistent upkeep and maintenance throughout its life from the standard watering to trimming, pruning, fertilizing, and repotting. Once you start learning more about Bonsai, you can start getting into more advanced care techniques such as structural pruning and training to change the shape of your tree. 

Training, for the most part, is not required on pre-bought Bonsai, however, if you want to exaggerate the shapes more or tree has lost some its shape you can start getting into some light training. Essentially, this technique requires you to wrap wires around the branches of your trees in order to bend and reposition them. In general, you’ll want to wire in the winter when the tree is dormant. You’ll have to keep an eye on growth as the branches can grow around a wire if it grows too quickly.

You can also look into structural pruning, which removes the tree’s primary structural branches. This should only be done when the tree is dormant to avoid severe damage. If you haven’t done this before, it’s best to bring in a professional.

Caring For Bonsai Trees Requires Consistency and Dedication

Caring for Bonsai Trees requires consistency and dedication. When well cared for, Bonsai can live centuries. The oldest is over 1,000 years old!

Of course, your first few Bonsai might not last that long as you get used to caring for it. Still, the more you research and experience, the better you’ll get at caring for Bonsai. When you’re first starting out, make sure to buy a single plant to make sure you’re up for the challenge. The best Bonsai tree for beginners is the Ficus Bonsai as they are tolerant of low humidity and are quite hardy.

Lisa Czachowski is a professional social blogger and has worked on several online publications including Citrus Sleep. Lisa is an experienced content writer and copyeditor. You will find many of her works throughout CitrusSleep.com that cover a wide array of subjects including sustainability, natural, sleep products, health, fashion and many more. She is passionate about what providing as much information as possible on products you bring in your home and what we wear.

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